A few random thoughts while travelling along the Bhagirathi river and Gangotri glacier. (All my own work):
At Haridwar, we were witness to many an endearing offering. In a little plate made with thick green leaves of lily, are placed 3 large beautiful flowers. A few dollops of camphor and this unlikely ship is sent off on its journey towards the seas. Its fuelled by the dreams of the people sending them, and of course the rapids of the Ganga. Which even at 300 metres above sea level, retains a large amount of the ferociousness and the devil may care attitude, which we were to see many times in the days to come. Sadly, not many escape the rapids, and capsize just a few metres down the way. Mercifully it’s just out of sight of the devotee by then.
Like the Lord of the Rings should have been shot on the Himalayas. Scratched by landslides, weathered by storms and ice, and a loud and mighty river cutting right through the middle of it, with or without consent. The faces of the mountains in the Western Ghats and the Deccan Plateau at large, one notices a certain benign and gentle look about them. Like little mishappened eggs. The ones out there have no such pretensions. They are gnarled, gashed, and riddled with scars of battle. Obscured by clouds, their majesty only increases as one’s eyes travel up their misty heights. Last, but not the least, they have the experience in playing out such sagas. In the first ever epics, long before the imagination Tolkein was engineered in a German factory.
The Gomukh glacier is an eerie place. The sound of water rushing through it all around you, but your vision of stones scattered in a careless manner. Big stones and bigger stones. And then some small stones, if u can see a little closer. All on a bed of ice, a few hundred metres thick. If that helps in imagining what I’m trying to picturise. And thats a bird’s eye view.
Get on top of the glacier itself, and it gets eerier. Stones go scurrying down slopes of ice over a hundred feet tall. The smaller ones are the size of a basketball. The larger ones the size of a Toyota Innova, only many times the mass. Oh, here they go again.
A glacier is the perfect place to observe Chaos Effect in live action. One walks on a mixture of stones, boulders and sand peppered with shavings of mica. And not one of these is stationary. Its a bit like that game on Takeshi’s Castle, where you have to jump over large stones made of plaster of Paris kept floating on a lake, only much more dangerous. Though this isn’t half bad, all you get a drubbing. On the glacier, you have to painfully extricate your foot from under a ton of stones.
Who ever knew that lack of oxygen casn be an extremely potent drug? Just a little less oxygen than you’re used to at home, is enough to send your head spinning and your brain starts thinking off jumping off the six foot wide ridge you are ridiculously perched on (ironically to gather a breather). Into a vast moving glacier, some five hundred feet below, just for the pure fun of it. Boy. Try it at your own risk.
Not that walking on ice itself if a lot better. It has the appearance of white furry fur from afar, but (as one must expect) it isn’t. Its a few feet thick at best, and a few inches thick most of the time. But you really can’t tell the difference. So one spends half one’s time getting out of knee deep ice, some trying to get a move on, and a lot of time in catching one’s breath. Quite frustrating, I assure you.
And getting out of knee deep ice is not as easy as it sounds. Ice packs itself around your foot with the consistency of pavement cement. And quite probably, when you try to use your hands to hoist yourself up, your hand go inside too. And there’s a high chance that if you’ve got your left leg ensnared in the most savage trap you can find, when you try to use the right to get out, that one will sink too. And you’re on your buttocks on ice at 19000 feet, with the option of mobility taken away from you.
After a while on the Kalindi Khal trail, it becomes quite difficult to have random thoughts. Oxygen starved, mentally drained, there is only one thought that strikes your head repeatedly, continuously, without stop, that of reaching camp. Bangalore, NITK, Mumbai, all silently recede away into nothingness. All you can see is your feet hitting the ground endlessly.
And for a final random thought: I met a small fellow at Haridwar. He looked like a typical street urchin. At 8 years and around 2 feet, what he owned was what he wore: a pair of shorts. He came up to me while I was drinking a cup of tea with a pilgrim. At the Haridwar Railway station, close to midnight. While hundreds of people asleep or chatting away the time to their train, in a large open space inside the station. He wanted a cup of tea, and surprisingly didn’t put on the usual beggar look when he asked for one. And he asked the pilgrim, (who was a farmer from Haryana) not me. Possibly he felt that I’d be the kind who wouldn’t encourage begging (and I don’t). Then we got chatting with the little chap, Chotu. The pilgrim’s two brothers also joined us.
Chotu was filled with an enthusiasm that one wouldn’t normally associate with a child of his background. Or whether one associates anything in the family of feelings in the first place. He told us that he was from a village in Bihar, and that his parents had thrown him out of the house. He said this with a matter of fact tone, which one normally uses for leaving the home in the morning. He told us of his travels all over North India, using trains for transport and as a place to stay. He described, with great detail and panache, how he beat up a fully grown robber who tried to steal some of his money. With action replay! He proceeded to swagger around the porch, shouting “Sub ki gaand marvaunga!”
It is with a snobbish air after all, that we speak of the Other India. The India in slums and villages, those who live on less than a dollar a day. For it we who are the other India. They form the larger majority, they service our lives in many ways, and are always invisible while they’re at it. Or we choose to make them invisible. It is we who are the other India.